2021.10.25 17:40 eshlow PSA: Feeling connective tissue, joint, ligament, or finger soreness is not normal and almost always a sign that your frequency, volume and intensity are too high
With in the influx of injury threads, I'm going to talk about this more. I've posted this article from Renaissance periodization several times before here when discussing these topics. It's specifically written for hypertrophy, but it applies pretty all tissues because of the SAID principle (specific adaptations to impose demands).
Here's a visual description of the concepts discussed in said article above.
The article is not 100% accurate but a general representation. Biological processes run generally follow curvature responses (e.g. hormesis is one that is different than a more standardized adaptation bell curve), but they can differ depending on the amount of adaptation to various stresses.
Generally speaking, most connective tissue, pulley, joint, and such soreness happens when you are ranging into MRV or past that. The overuse injury risk is high. 99% of the time people need to back off substantially on either the intensity or volume or both at these times and let the tissues recover. Then they can build up slowly. Incremental progress.
Typically, the maximal adaptive volume range for most of us non-professional climbers is somewhere in the 3x a week range and stopping right before or right at when your maximal performance starts to drop in a session. For most people that's probably about 1.5-2 hours or so with adequate rest times. Work capacity can increase depending on your fitness and how long you've been climbing so it can shift up which is why you have people able to make good progress at 4-5x a week and slightly longer sessions, but jumping into such increased frequency and longer sessions takes month if not years to build up to.
Several years ago I was:
This isn't to say what I'm doing is optimal, but it's not something I'm in isolation saying about this type of stuff. Tyler Nelson talked a bit about this in The Nugget Podcast in the section on: 1:22:58 – Emil Abrahamsson, Keith Bar, and the “No Hangs” hangboard protocol
Tyler speculates the reason why some lower intensity stuff might work for a bunch of people is because it's deloading. People gotta fit in all the things like climbing, working out, hangboard, campus board, and whatever all the time, but maybe everyone is just doing too much and the deload is what is helping substantially.
He also speculates earlier in the podcast (which I agree with) that he looked at how some of the pro climbers sending V15-16 were training like 5-6x a week for several hours at a time and thinks they could probably be doing V17-18. However, the thing holding them back is the fact that they're in a chronically overreaching/overtrained state so their performance in lowered. If they dropped to a reasonable schedule they could probably send harder.
The Alex Puccio program discussion comes to mind in that respect. Not knocking on her, but this is generally something most people have to learn over time by themselves unless they have really good coaches... and most coaches in climbing at least for now don't know a whole lot about implementing quality structured programs based on injury prevention and periodization.
Don't make training mistakes that can injure you for the long run. Back off and find frequency, intensity, and volume where these symptoms are not happening.
Don't have time to go over specific injuries, but most people who have been here for years know about my other injury articles on climbing include: pulleys, tendonitis / tendinopathy, PIP synovitis, low back, and general treatment of hand and finger injuries.
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2021.10.25 17:40 macedonianmoper About GBL legendary pokemon rewards...
Let's say I've reached level 20 already, I win 3 games of the set and don't claim the reward.
If I wait for the next legendary raid, and THEN claim it, will it change to the new legendary or stay on the previous one (Assuming I do get the legendary).
I ask simply because with Ultra league I'm no longer able to compete like I was in great league, and I have enough Darkrai
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2021.10.25 17:40 Shitbagels Am I being naive?
So I live on the south coast, with the South Downs to my north. Easy access. I’ve foraged for edible mushrooms for a few years and I can usually find enough on a trip, but I’ve never looked for magic mushroomed before this Autumn. Is it likely that a total rank amateur will just stumble across them in a field or am I kidding myself (and wasting my time)?
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2021.10.25 17:40 Bean_the_Sender Cringe Kylo gets owned by Han Shabibo
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2021.10.25 17:40 Signal_Lemon_8926 Gowdy Slams ‘Partisan’ SCOTUS Coverage: ‘Try To At Least Fake Being Fair’
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2021.10.25 17:40 Admirable-Ad-6198 This proof
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2021.10.25 17:40 SchoolLaptopAcc01 Screw light and dark mode
2021.10.25 17:40 Posco_Bumbleroot Had me rolling
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2021.10.25 17:40 jazzystoess goodevening everyone.😛😛 [swipe]
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2021.10.25 17:40 LeaderBrilliant3662 Made in America, Make America Great Again
2021.10.25 17:40 Signal_Lemon_8926 Greene Introduces Articles of Impeachment Accusing Biden of ‘Treason’
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2021.10.25 17:40 221 If Rickrolling originated in Ireland, what song would be used?
2021.10.25 17:40 ollyacko Beta save
Currently downloading FM22, could someone give me a beta save that isn’t Newcastle as unfortunately for me I’m a sunderland fan, really unsure who to go with
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2021.10.25 17:40 JayMiahXT If Lolong THE KING Donaire could only have one of the below and must renounce everything else, what would he keep?
2021.10.25 17:40 NarrowPresentation78 me and my best friend when were the imposters
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2021.10.25 17:40 lena261989 Mad Dog - про Бузову
2021.10.25 17:40 Fallingdamage Behind many burned out workers is an overzealous manager. Managers, how do you live with yourselves?
2021.10.25 17:40 Sky_216 Stick together family! 💪🚀 Hodl
2021.10.25 17:40 DrAliMac Soundproof rooms in the city
A service where you let out soundproof rooms by the half hour, in cities. Because it is almost Impossible to get real quiet in a city, but also because you may want to be very noisy without anyone hearing you, for example:
2021.10.25 17:40 Overall_Sandwich_671 No parenthood
In my last game, after extending my house, I removed the crib. My spouse never asked if I wanted to have kids. Did anybody else do this?
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2021.10.25 17:40 Firebou6006 Just got this
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2021.10.25 17:40 Cleverusername18 Only need $20-$30 to put some gas in my car
I've been unemployed since the end of July and after 200+ applications I finally have some interviews this week. 3 of them but they are all 20 minute drives from my house and I have just enough to get to the gas station. If anyone could lend a hand I would be very grateful.
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2021.10.25 17:40 ahumanpersonbeing What if politics are just a hoax made by news agencies to sell more news?
2021.10.25 17:40 wildkiller65 Anyone have ceiling lights run and installed recently? Costs? Recommendations?
Hey all. My wife and I are on the hunt for ceiling lights installation.
Currenrly our light switch turns on a plug outlet that we have a lamp plugged into... so we don't get much light... so we would need a full rewiring by electrician. Attic is easily accessible... but that's as much as I know.
Anyone done this recently and if so how much did it set you back? Any recommendations on electricians?
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2021.10.25 17:40 physicscholar Long but cheaper answer to loose skin?
Does anyone know of any scientific research to back what this guy is saying? It is Dr Berry who claims you can essentially fast your skin away. https://youtu.be/KWh4qeVEaqw
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